Taste of Greece
The dishes and drinks you will meet at every taverna and kafeneio across the country, already part of our A to Z Travel Dictionary, now with a closer look at each one.

Moussaka
The layered bake of aubergine, spiced mince and béchamel, a lunchtime classic.
Photo: Vouliagmeni, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
How to make Moussaka
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 40 min, cook 1 hr 20 min
Ingredients
- 2 large aubergines, sliced lengthways
- 2 large potatoes, sliced
- 500g minced lamb or beef
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
- 60g butter
- 60g plain flour
- 600ml warm milk
- 2 egg yolks
- 80g grated kefalotyri or parmesan
Method
- Salt the aubergine and potato slices and leave for 20 minutes, then pat dry and brush with olive oil.
- Grill or fry the aubergine and potato slices in batches until golden, then set aside on kitchen paper.
- Fry the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft, add the mince and brown well.
- Stir in the tomatoes and cinnamon, season, and simmer for 20 minutes until thick.
- Make the béchamel: melt the butter, whisk in the flour, then gradually add the warm milk, stirring until thick and smooth.
- Take the béchamel off the heat and beat in the egg yolks and half the cheese.
- Layer potatoes, then aubergine, then the meat sauce in a large baking dish, repeating once.
- Pour the béchamel over the top, scatter with the remaining cheese, and bake at 180C (350F) for 45 minutes until golden.
- Rest for 15 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.

Souvlaki
Skewered grilled meat with pita and trimmings, Greece's beloved fast food (a bare skewer is a 'kalamaki').
How to make Souvlaki
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min (plus 1 hr marinating), cook 15 min
Ingredients
- 600g pork shoulder or chicken breast, cubed
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- Salt and pepper
- 4 pitta breads
- Tzatziki, tomato and onion, to serve
Method
- Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper in a bowl.
- Add the cubed meat, toss well, cover and marinate for at least 1 hour (overnight is better).
- Thread the meat onto skewers.
- Grill or barbecue over high heat for 10 to 15 minutes, turning often, until charred and cooked through.
- Warm the pitta breads on the grill for the last minute.
- Serve the skewers with warm pitta, tzatziki, sliced tomato and onion.
Photo: pastitio (Flickr), CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Tzatziki
The yoghurt, cucumber and garlic dip that partners grilled meats.
How to make Tzatziki
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 15 min (plus 30 min draining), no cooking
Ingredients
- 500g Greek yoghurt
- 1 cucumber, grated
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve
- 1 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice
- 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped (optional)
- Salt to taste
Method
- Grate the cucumber, place in a sieve with a pinch of salt, and leave to drain for 30 minutes.
- Squeeze the cucumber firmly in a clean tea towel to remove as much liquid as possible.
- Mix the yoghurt, drained cucumber, garlic, olive oil and vinegar in a bowl.
- Stir in the dill if using, and season with salt.
- Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving with a drizzle of olive oil.
Photo: Nikodem Nijaki, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Spanakopita
Spinach and feta pie in crisp filo; the cheese only version is tiropita.
Photo: Dianeira, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
How to make Spanakopita
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 30 min, cook 40 min
Ingredients
- 500g spinach, washed and chopped
- 1 bunch spring onions, chopped
- 200g feta, crumbled
- 2 eggs, beaten
- 2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
- 270g filo pastry (about 10 sheets)
- 60g butter, melted
Method
- Wilt the spinach and spring onions in a little olive oil, then drain well and cool.
- Mix the spinach with the feta, eggs and dill, and season with pepper (feta is already salty).
- Brush a baking tin with melted butter and layer half the filo sheets, brushing each with butter.
- Spread the spinach and feta filling evenly over the filo.
- Layer the remaining filo sheets on top, brushing each with butter, and tuck in the edges.
- Score the top into portions and bake at 180C (350F) for about 40 minutes until golden and crisp.
- Cool slightly before cutting along the scored lines and serving.

Gyros
Spit roasted meat shaved into pita with tomato, onion, tzatziki and chips, Greece's everyday street food.
How to make Gyros
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min (plus 2 hr marinating), cook 20 min
Ingredients
- 600g pork shoulder, thinly sliced
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 tsp sweet paprika
- Salt and pepper
- 4 pitta breads
- Tzatziki, tomatoes, onion and chips, to serve
Method
- Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, paprika, salt and pepper in a bowl.
- Add the sliced pork, toss well, cover and marinate for at least 2 hours.
- Stack the marinated slices tightly onto a skewer or thread onto a rotisserie if you have one.
- Cook over high heat, turning regularly, for about 20 minutes until well charred and cooked through, then slice thinly.
- Warm the pitta breads.
- Fill each pitta with the sliced meat, tzatziki, tomato, onion and chips, and wrap tightly to serve.
Photo: jeffreyw, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewDolmades
Vine leaves stuffed with rice and herbs, served warm or cold with lemon.
How to make Dolmades
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 45 min, cook 45 min
Ingredients
- 40 to 50 vine leaves (fresh or preserved in brine)
- 200g short grain rice
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
- 3 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
- 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for cooking
- 1 lemon, juiced, plus extra to serve
- 500ml vegetable stock
- Salt and pepper
Method
- If using brined vine leaves, rinse well; if fresh, blanch briefly in boiling water until pliable.
- Fry the onion in olive oil until soft, then stir in the rice for a minute to coat.
- Take off the heat and mix in the dill, mint, salt and pepper.
- Lay a vine leaf flat, veined side up, place a teaspoon of filling near the stem end, fold in the sides and roll up tightly.
- Repeat with the remaining leaves and filling.
- Pack the rolls tightly, seam side down, in a wide pan lined with any spare or torn leaves.
- Pour over the lemon juice, olive oil and enough stock to just cover, and weigh down with a plate.
- Simmer gently, covered, for 45 minutes until the rice is tender.
- Serve warm or cold with extra lemon juice.
Photo: Saintfevrier, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Loukoumades
Honey drenched fried dough puffs dusted with cinnamon, one of the oldest Greek sweets.
How to make Loukoumades
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min (plus 1 hr proving), cook 20 min
Ingredients
- 300g strong white flour
- 7g fast action dried yeast
- 1 tsp sugar
- 300ml warm water
- Pinch of salt
- Sunflower oil, for deep frying
- Honey, for drizzling
- Ground cinnamon and chopped walnuts, to serve
Method
- Whisk the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a bowl, then gradually beat in the warm water to make a thick, smooth batter.
- Cover and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour until bubbly and doubled in size.
- Heat sunflower oil in a deep pan to about 180C (350F).
- Wet your hand or a spoon and drop small balls of batter into the hot oil, frying in batches until golden and puffed.
- Drain on kitchen paper.
- Pile onto a plate, drizzle generously with honey, and scatter with cinnamon and walnuts before serving warm.
Photo: Flickr user “avlxyz”, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Baklava
Layers of filo, chopped nuts and syrup or honey, a sweet shared across the eastern Mediterranean.
How to make Baklava
- Serves
- 12
- Time
- Prep 30 min, cook 45 min
Ingredients
- 270g filo pastry (about 20 sheets)
- 250g walnuts, finely chopped
- 150g pistachios or almonds, finely chopped
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 150g butter, melted
- 250g sugar
- 250ml water
- 2 tbsp honey
- 1 tsp lemon juice
Method
- Mix the chopped nuts with the cinnamon.
- Brush a baking tin with melted butter and layer about a third of the filo sheets, brushing each with butter.
- Scatter over half the nut mixture, then repeat with another third of the filo and the rest of the nuts.
- Layer the remaining filo sheets on top, brushing each with butter, and tuck in the edges.
- Cut into diamond or square portions before baking.
- Bake at 160C (325F) for about 45 minutes until deep golden and crisp.
- Meanwhile, simmer the sugar, water, honey and lemon juice for 10 minutes to make a syrup, then leave it to cool completely.
- Pour the cold syrup evenly over the baklava as soon as it comes out of the oven.
- Leave to cool completely and absorb the syrup before serving.
Photo: Mike65444, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Ouzo
The anise spirit that clouds with water, sipped slowly with meze, especially on the island of Lesvos.
How to make Ouzo flambeed Shrimp Saganaki
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 15 min, cook 20 min
Ingredients
- 500g large raw prawns, peeled (tails on)
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 60ml ouzo
- 150g feta, crumbled
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- Fresh parsley, chopped, to serve
Method
- Fry the onion and garlic in olive oil in a wide pan until soft.
- Add the tomatoes and oregano, and simmer for 10 minutes until thickened.
- Push the sauce to one side, add the prawns, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
- Warm the ouzo in a small pan or ladle, pour it over the prawns, and carefully light it with a long match to flambe off the alcohol.
- Once the flames die down, stir the prawns through the sauce.
- Scatter over the crumbled feta and cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes until just melting.
- Finish with chopped parsley and serve hot with bread.
Ouzo itself is an anise spirit rather than a cooked dish, so this is the classic Greek meze made with it.
Photo: Jdoukas21 (EXIF credit: George Pavlakos), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Retsina
The resin flavoured white wine of central Greece, characterful alongside meze.
How to make Classic Meze Plate for Retsina
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 25 min, no cooking (plus grilling the saganaki)
Ingredients
- 200g feta, sliced thick
- 1 tbsp olive oil for frying feta
- 1 tbsp flour, for dusting feta
- 150g Kalamata olives
- 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced
- 1 cucumber, sliced
- 100g taramasalata or melitzanosalata (aubergine dip)
- Crusty bread or pitta
- Dried oregano and olive oil, to finish
Method
- Dust the feta slices lightly in flour and fry in olive oil for a minute on each side until golden (saganaki style).
- Arrange the olives, tomatoes and cucumber on a large platter.
- Add the fried feta and a bowl of taramasalata or melitzanosalata.
- Warm the bread or pitta and cut into wedges.
- Drizzle everything with olive oil and a scatter of dried oregano.
- Serve chilled retsina alongside, refilling glasses as the meze is shared.
Retsina is a resin flavoured wine to drink alongside meze, not a dish itself, so this is the classic spread it is traditionally paired with.
Photo: Yorick R., CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Tsipouro
A strong pomace spirit from the mainland (raki on Crete), drunk with meze at a tsipouradiko.
How to make Meze Plate for Tsipouro
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min, cook 10 min
Ingredients
- 200g grilled octopus or smoked mackerel
- 150g Kalamata olives
- 150g sun dried tomatoes
- 200g cured meats (loukaniko sausage or pastourma)
- 100g cheese (graviera or kefalotyri), cubed
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges
- Crusty bread
Method
- If using octopus, char grill briefly until lightly crisped at the edges.
- If using sausage, fry until browned and cooked through, then slice.
- Arrange the octopus or mackerel, olives, sun dried tomatoes, cured meats and cheese on a shared platter.
- Add lemon wedges and crusty bread on the side.
- Serve with small glasses of chilled tsipouro at a tsipouradiko style spread.
Tsipouro is a pomace spirit traditionally served alongside a run of small meze plates like this one.
Photo: BucsWeb, CC0 1.0 (public domain dedication), via Wikimedia Commons
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Frappe
The frothy iced instant coffee invented in Thessaloniki in 1957, a Greek summer institution. It is made by shaking instant coffee, sugar and a little cold water hard until it foams, then pouring the foam over ice and topping up with water or milk. Order it sketos (no sugar), metrios (medium) or glykos (sweet). Worth knowing: frappe is now the older order, seen as somewhat retro and popular with tourists and an older crowd, while most Greeks under forty have switched to freddo espresso or freddo cappuccino instead.
How to make Frappe
- Serves
- 1
- Time
- Prep 5 min, no cooking
Ingredients
- 2 tsp instant coffee
- 2 tsp sugar (or to taste)
- 2 to 3 tbsp cold water
- Ice cubes
- Cold water or milk, to top up
Method
- Put the instant coffee, sugar and cold water into a shaker or a glass.
- Shake vigorously (or use a small hand mixer/frappe mixer) for about 20 to 30 seconds until a thick, pale foam forms.
- Fill a tall glass with ice cubes.
- Pour the foam over the ice.
- Top up with cold water, or milk if you like it creamier, and serve with a straw.
Photo: Elwiki74, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Freddo espresso
A double shot of hot espresso shaken hard over ice until it turns cold and builds a thick, long lasting crema on top, then strained into a glass of fresh ice. Order it sketos (no sugar), metrios (medium) or glykos (sweet), just as you would with frappe or Greek coffee. Freddo cappuccino is the variation with a layer of cold whipped milk foam spooned on top, while freddo espresso is served plain. To order, simply say "freddo espresso metrios" (or sketos/glykos) at the counter. This is now the everyday cold coffee order across Greece and has displaced frappe for most younger drinkers, with frappe left to an older, more tourist leaning crowd.
How to make Freddo espresso
- Serves
- 1
- Time
- Prep 5 min, no cooking
Ingredients
- 1 double shot of hot espresso (about 40 to 50ml)
- 1 tsp sugar (optional, to taste)
- Ice cubes
Method
- Pull a double shot of hot espresso.
- If you want it sweetened, stir the sugar into the hot espresso straight away so it dissolves.
- Pour the hot espresso into a cocktail shaker with a handful of ice cubes.
- Shake hard for about 15 to 20 seconds until the outside of the shaker frosts over and a thick crema forms on top.
- Strain into a glass filled with fresh ice cubes and serve with a straw.
Photo: Irini Xasiotou, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Greek Coffee
Finely ground coffee slow brewed in a small pot (briki) and served unfiltered, with the grounds settling at the bottom. Order it sketos (no sugar), metrios (medium) or glykos (sweet).
How to make Greek Coffee
- Serves
- 1
- Time
- Prep 5 min, cook 5 min
Ingredients
- 1 heaped tsp very finely ground Greek/Turkish style coffee
- 1 small cup of cold water (a demitasse measure)
- Sugar to taste (sketos: none, metrios: 1 tsp, glykos: 2 tsp)
Method
- Measure the cold water into a briki (small long handled pot) using the serving cup.
- Add the coffee and sugar (if using) to the water and stir well before heating.
- Place over low heat and let it warm slowly, without stirring again.
- Watch closely as it starts to foam and rise just before boiling, then take it off the heat immediately.
- Spoon a little of the foam into the serving cup, then pour in the rest of the coffee gently.
- Let the grounds settle for a minute before sipping, and stop before you reach the grounds at the bottom.
Photo: Klearchos Kapoutsis from Santorini, Greece, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Mastiha
The sweet liqueur (and resin) from the mastic trees of Chios, used in drinks and desserts.
How to make Galaktoboureko Mastiha scented Custard Pie
- Serves
- 9
- Time
- Prep 30 min, cook 1 hr
Ingredients
- 1 litre milk
- 150g semolina (fine)
- 150g sugar
- 4 eggs
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 2 mastiha crystals, ground with a little sugar (or a pinch of ground mastiha)
- 270g filo pastry (about 10 sheets)
- 120g butter, melted
- For the syrup: 300g sugar, 300ml water, 1 tbsp lemon juice
Method
- Warm the milk in a pan without boiling.
- Whisk the sugar and eggs together, then whisk in the semolina until smooth.
- Gradually pour the warm milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly, then return everything to the pan.
- Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens into a custard.
- Take off the heat and stir in the vanilla and ground mastiha, then leave to cool slightly.
- Layer half the filo sheets in a buttered baking dish, brushing each with melted butter.
- Pour in the custard and spread evenly.
- Layer the remaining filo sheets on top, each brushed with butter, and score the top into portions.
- Bake at 180C (350F) for about 45 minutes until golden.
- Meanwhile, simmer the sugar, water and lemon juice for 10 minutes to make a syrup.
- Pour the cooled syrup over the hot pie (or hot syrup over a cooled pie) and leave to soak before serving.
Mastiha is a resin rather than a dish on its own, so this is the classic mastiha scented sweet made with it.
How to make Mastiha Sour
- Serves
- 1
- Time
- Prep 5 min, no cooking
Ingredients
- 50ml mastiha liqueur
- 25ml fresh lemon juice
- 15ml sugar syrup
- Ice cubes
- A strip of lemon peel, to garnish
Method
- Fill a shaker with ice.
- Add the mastiha liqueur, lemon juice and sugar syrup.
- Shake hard for about 15 seconds until the outside of the shaker frosts.
- Strain into a chilled short glass over one large ice cube.
- Twist the lemon peel over the surface to release the oils, then drop it in.
Photo: NickKatraris, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Pastitsio
Greece's baked pasta: long tubes, spiced mince and a thick béchamel lid, cut into squares.
How to make Pastitsio
- Serves
- 8
- Time
- Prep 35 min, cook 1 hr
Ingredients
- 500g pastitsio tubes or thick bucatini
- 600g minced beef
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 2 cloves
- 150ml red wine
- 100g butter
- 100g plain flour
- 1 litre warm milk
- 3 egg yolks
- 150g grated kefalotyri
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
- Fry the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft, then add the mince and brown it well.
- Pour in the wine and let it bubble away, then add the tomatoes, puree, cinnamon and cloves.
- Season and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes until thick and almost dry. Remove the cloves.
- Boil the pasta for two minutes less than the packet says, drain, and toss with a little butter.
- Make the béchamel: melt the butter, whisk in the flour and cook for a minute, then add the warm milk gradually until thick.
- Off the heat, beat in the egg yolks and half the cheese.
- Layer half the pasta in a deep dish, spread over the meat, then the remaining pasta.
- Pour the béchamel over the top, level it, and scatter with the rest of the cheese.
- Bake at 180C (350F) for 45 to 50 minutes until deep golden. Rest 20 minutes before cutting.
Photo: Robert Kindermann, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewHoriatiki
The village salad. No lettuce, no leaves, just ripe tomato, cucumber, olives and a slab of feta.
How to make Horiatiki
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 15 min, no cooking
Ingredients
- 4 large ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges
- 1 cucumber, peeled in stripes and thickly sliced
- 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 green pepper, sliced into rings
- 100g Kalamata olives
- 200g block of feta
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- Salt
Method
- Put the tomato wedges into a wide shallow bowl and salt them lightly so they start to release juice.
- Add the cucumber, red onion, pepper rings and olives, and turn gently.
- Lay the feta on top in one whole slab. Do not crumble it.
- Sprinkle the oregano over the feta, then pour over the olive oil and vinegar.
- Serve immediately with bread, and mop the juices at the bottom of the bowl.
Photo: Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 4.0 (multi licensed, also GFDL and CC BY-SA 3.0, 2.5, 2.0 and 1.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewFasolada
White bean soup, thick with olive oil and vegetables. Often called the national dish.
How to make Fasolada
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 15 min (plus overnight soaking), cook 1 hr 30 min
Ingredients
- 500g dried white beans, soaked overnight
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 3 carrots, sliced
- 3 celery sticks with leaves, sliced
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 150ml extra virgin olive oil
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp sweet paprika
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Drain the soaked beans, cover with fresh water, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, then drain again.
- Return the beans to the pot with the onion, carrot, celery and bay leaves, and cover with fresh water by 5cm.
- Simmer for about an hour until the beans are tender but still holding shape.
- Stir in the tomatoes, puree, paprika and most of the olive oil.
- Season and simmer for another 20 to 30 minutes until the soup thickens.
- Finish with the remaining olive oil poured over each bowl. Serve with olives and bread.
Photo: Miansari66, CC0 1.0 (public domain dedication), via Wikimedia Commons
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Gemista
Tomatoes and peppers hollowed out, stuffed with herby rice and baked slowly with potatoes.
How to make Gemista
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 40 min, cook 1 hr 15 min
Ingredients
- 6 large tomatoes
- 4 peppers
- 250g long grain rice, rinsed
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- Large handful of parsley, chopped
- Handful of mint, chopped
- 2 potatoes, cut into thick wedges
- 150ml olive oil
- 1 tsp sugar
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Slice the tops off the tomatoes and peppers and keep them as lids. Scoop out the tomato flesh and blend it.
- Fry the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft, then stir in the rice for a minute.
- Add half the blended tomato pulp, the herbs, sugar, salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes. The rice should still be firm.
- Sit the hollowed vegetables in a roasting tin and fill each two thirds full, as the rice will swell.
- Put the lids back on, tuck the potato wedges into the gaps, and pour the rest of the pulp and the oil over everything.
- Add a splash of water to the tin, cover with foil and bake at 180C (350F) for 45 minutes.
- Uncover and bake for another 30 minutes until browned on top. Best eaten warm rather than hot.
Photo: Badseed, CC BY-SA 3.0 (multi licensed, also GFDL and CC BY-SA 2.5), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewKleftiko
Lamb sealed in paper with garlic, lemon and oregano, cooked until it falls off the bone.
How to make Kleftiko
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min (plus 2 hr marinating), cook 3 hr
Ingredients
- 1.5kg lamb shoulder on the bone, cut into large pieces
- 6 garlic cloves, slivered
- 2 lemons, juiced
- 2 tbsp dried oregano
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 3 potatoes, quartered
- 200g kefalotyri or feta, cubed
- 2 bay leaves
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Make small cuts in the lamb and push slivers of garlic into them.
- Mix the lemon juice, oregano, olive oil, salt and pepper, rub it into the lamb and leave for two hours.
- Line a deep dish with two large sheets of baking paper, crossed over.
- Pile in the lamb with the potatoes, cheese, bay leaves and every drop of the marinade.
- Gather the paper up and tie it into a tight parcel so no steam escapes, then cover the dish with foil.
- Bake at 160C (320F) for 3 hours. Do not open it.
- Tear the parcel open at the table so the steam and smell come out in front of everyone.
Photo: Lord Mountbatten, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Stifado
Beef and whole baby onions braised low with red wine, cinnamon and bay.
How to make Stifado
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 25 min, cook 2 hr 30 min
Ingredients
- 1kg stewing beef, cubed
- 1kg small pickling onions, peeled and left whole
- 4 garlic cloves
- 300ml red wine
- 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 bay leaves
- 4 allspice berries
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
- Brown the beef hard in olive oil in batches, then lift it out and set aside.
- Add the whole onions to the pot and colour them gently all over without breaking them up.
- Return the beef, add the garlic, wine and vinegar and let it bubble for two minutes.
- Stir in the tomatoes, puree, cinnamon, bay and allspice, and just enough water to cover.
- Cover and simmer very gently for 2 to 2.5 hours until the beef is tender and the sauce is glossy.
- Do not stir much or the onions will collapse. Shake the pot instead.
- Season at the end and serve with bread or rice.
Photo: KF at English Wikipedia, Public domain (released by author), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewYouvetsi
Orzo baked in the same dish as the meat, drinking up all the tomato and stock.
How to make Youvetsi
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 20 min, cook 1 hr 45 min
Ingredients
- 1kg lamb or beef, cubed
- 1 onion, chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 500g orzo (kritharaki)
- 1.2 litres hot stock or water
- 150g grated kefalotyri
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
- Brown the meat in olive oil in a wide ovenproof dish, then add the onion and garlic and soften.
- Add the tomatoes, puree and cinnamon, season, cover and bake at 180C (350F) for one hour.
- Stir in the dry orzo and the hot stock. The liquid should sit well above the pasta.
- Return uncovered to the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once, until the orzo is tender and creamy.
- Scatter the cheese over and give it 5 more minutes.
- Rest for 10 minutes before serving, as it thickens further off the heat.
Photo: Robert Kindermann, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
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Saganaki
A slab of hard cheese fried until it blisters, served with nothing but lemon.
How to make Saganaki
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 5 min, cook 5 min
Ingredients
- 400g kefalograviera, graviera or kasseri, in 1.5cm slices
- 3 tbsp plain flour
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges
- Black pepper
Method
- Run the cheese slices briefly under cold water so the flour sticks.
- Coat each slice all over in flour and shake off the excess.
- Heat the olive oil in a small heavy frying pan until it shimmers.
- Fry the cheese for about 1 to 2 minutes a side until a deep golden crust forms and the middle softens.
- Lift straight onto a plate, grind over black pepper and squeeze the lemon on at the table.
- Eat it at once. It sets hard as it cools.
Photo: L.A. Foodie, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Taramosalata
Cured fish roe whipped with bread and olive oil into a pale, salty dip. Pink is a modern invention.
How to make Taramosalata
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 15 min, no cooking
Ingredients
- 100g tarama (cured cod or carp roe)
- 150g stale white bread, crusts removed
- 1 small onion, grated
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 200ml mild olive oil
- 2 tbsp cold water
Method
- Soak the bread in cold water for a few minutes, then squeeze it out very firmly.
- Put the tarama, bread, grated onion and half the lemon juice into a blender and blitz to a paste.
- With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin steady stream, as you would for mayonnaise.
- Add the cold water to loosen it and blend until pale and fluffy.
- Taste and add the rest of the lemon juice. It should not need salt.
- Chill for an hour. Serve with bread or raw vegetables.
Photo: Robert Kindermann, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewMelitzanosalata
Aubergines charred whole until smoky, then chopped with garlic, oil and vinegar.
How to make Melitzanosalata
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 15 min, cook 45 min
Ingredients
- 3 large aubergines
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Handful of parsley, chopped
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Prick the aubergines and roast whole at 220C (425F) for 45 minutes, or char them directly over a gas flame or barbecue for real smoke.
- Leave until cool enough to handle, then split them and scoop out the flesh, discarding the skin.
- Drain the flesh in a sieve for 10 minutes so the dip is not watery.
- Chop the flesh with a knife rather than blending it, so it keeps some texture.
- Mix in the garlic, vinegar, olive oil and parsley, and season well.
- Serve at room temperature with plenty of bread.
Photo: Badseed, CC BY-SA 3.0 (also offered under GFDL), via Wikimedia Commons
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Fava
Santorini's yellow split peas cooked to a puree and topped with raw onion and oil.
How to make Fava
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 10 min, cook 50 min
Ingredients
- 400g yellow split peas, rinsed
- 1 onion, halved
- 1 litre water
- 100ml extra virgin olive oil
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 1 small red onion, finely chopped
- Capers, to serve
- Salt
Method
- Put the split peas in a pot with the halved onion and the water, and bring slowly to the boil.
- Skim off the foam that rises for the first few minutes. This matters for a clean flavour.
- Simmer partly covered for 45 to 50 minutes until the peas collapse, adding hot water if it gets too dry.
- Remove the onion halves, season with salt, and blend or beat to a smooth puree.
- Beat in most of the olive oil and the lemon juice while still warm.
- Spread on a plate, make a well, and top with the chopped red onion, capers and the last of the oil.
Photo: Yannismarou, CC BY-SA 3.0 (multi licensed, also GFDL and CC BY-SA 2.5, 2.0 and 1.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewKeftedes
Herby fried meatballs, soft in the middle, eaten hot or cold with lemon.
How to make Keftedes
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 20 min (plus 1 hr chilling), cook 15 min
Ingredients
- 500g minced beef or a beef and pork mix
- 1 onion, grated and squeezed dry
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 80g stale bread, soaked and squeezed
- 1 egg
- Handful of mint, chopped
- Handful of parsley, chopped
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- Flour, for coating
- Olive oil, for frying
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Mix everything except the flour and frying oil in a bowl and knead it well with your hands for a couple of minutes.
- Cover and chill for an hour. This is what stops them falling apart.
- Roll into walnut sized balls and flatten each one very slightly.
- Roll them in flour and shake off the excess.
- Fry in shallow hot olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes a side until well browned and cooked through.
- Drain on kitchen paper and serve with lemon.

Soutzoukakia
Long cumin scented meatballs from Smyrna, baked in a rich tomato sauce.
How to make Soutzoukakia
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 25 min, cook 40 min
Ingredients
- 600g minced beef
- 80g stale bread, soaked in red wine and squeezed
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 tsp ground cumin
- 1 egg
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 tsp sugar
- 150ml red wine
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
- Mix the mince, soaked bread, garlic, cumin and egg, season well and knead thoroughly.
- Shape into fat ovals about 8cm long, like small sausages.
- Brown them in olive oil on all sides. They do not need to cook through.
- In the same pan, add the wine and let it reduce by half, scraping the base.
- Add the tomatoes, puree and sugar, season, and simmer for 10 minutes.
- Return the meatballs to the sauce, cover and simmer gently for 25 minutes, turning once.
- Serve with rice or mashed potato and plenty of the sauce.
Photo: Perique des Palottes, Public domain (released by author, PD-self), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewKolokithokeftedes
Courgette and feta fritters, crisp outside and soft in the middle.
How to make Kolokithokeftedes
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 25 min (plus 30 min draining), cook 15 min
Ingredients
- 600g courgettes, coarsely grated
- 1 tsp salt
- 200g feta, crumbled
- 1 small onion, grated
- Handful of mint, chopped
- Handful of dill, chopped
- 1 egg
- 100g plain flour, plus more for coating
- Olive oil, for frying
- Black pepper
Method
- Toss the grated courgette with the salt and leave it in a sieve for 30 minutes.
- Squeeze the courgette out very hard in a clean tea towel. It should be almost dry.
- Mix with the feta, onion, herbs, egg, flour and pepper into a thick batter. Add a little more flour if it slumps.
- Shape into small patties and dust with flour.
- Shallow fry in hot olive oil for 2 to 3 minutes a side until deep golden.
- Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot with tzatziki.

Avgolemono
Chicken broth turned silky and sharp with eggs and lemon. Greece's cure for everything.
How to make Avgolemono
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 10 min, cook 1 hr 15 min
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken, about 1.5kg
- 1 onion, halved
- 2 carrots
- 2 celery sticks
- 150g short grain rice or orzo
- 3 eggs
- 2 lemons, juiced
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Simmer the chicken with the onion, carrot and celery in 2.5 litres of water for an hour, skimming the top.
- Lift out the chicken and strain the broth. Shred some of the meat and set it aside.
- Return the broth to the boil, add the rice and cook for 15 minutes until tender.
- Take the pot off the heat and let it stop bubbling completely.
- Whisk the eggs hard with the lemon juice, then whisk in a ladle of the hot broth, very slowly. Repeat with two more ladles.
- Pour the tempered egg mixture back into the pot, stirring constantly. Do not let it boil again or it will curdle.
- Add the shredded chicken, season and serve at once.
Photo: robin.norwood, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewBriam
Summer vegetables roasted slowly in olive oil until the edges catch and sweeten.
How to make Briam
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 25 min, cook 1 hr 30 min
Ingredients
- 3 potatoes, thinly sliced
- 2 courgettes, sliced
- 2 aubergines, sliced
- 3 tomatoes, sliced
- 2 onions, sliced
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- 150ml extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 tbsp dried oregano
- Handful of parsley, chopped
- Salt and pepper
Method
- Put all the sliced vegetables and the garlic into a large roasting tin.
- Whisk the olive oil with the tomato puree, oregano, salt and pepper, and a splash of water.
- Pour it over and turn everything with your hands until every slice is coated.
- Spread out in an even layer, no more than two vegetables deep.
- Bake at 180C (350F) for 1 hour 30 minutes, turning once halfway, until soft and browned at the edges.
- Scatter with parsley and let it settle. Briam is better warm than straight from the oven.
Papoutsakia
Little shoes: aubergine halves filled with mince and capped with béchamel.
How to make Papoutsakia
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 30 min, cook 1 hr
Ingredients
- 4 aubergines, halved lengthways
- 500g minced beef
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 400g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 1 tsp cinnamon
- 50g butter
- 50g plain flour
- 500ml warm milk
- 100g grated cheese
- Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
- Score the cut sides of the aubergines, brush with olive oil and roast at 200C (400F) for 25 minutes.
- Scoop out some of the flesh to make a hollow, chop it and keep it.
- Fry the onion and garlic, add the mince and brown, then add the chopped flesh, tomatoes and cinnamon.
- Season and simmer for 20 minutes until thick.
- Make a béchamel with the butter, flour and warm milk, then stir in half the cheese.
- Fill the aubergine shells with the meat, spoon the béchamel over each one and scatter with the rest of the cheese.
- Bake at 180C (350F) for 30 minutes until golden and bubbling.

Horta
Wild greens boiled and dressed with oil and lemon. The plainest thing on any Greek table, and the one people miss most.
How to make Horta
- Serves
- 4
- Time
- Prep 15 min, cook 20 min
Ingredients
- 1kg mixed leafy greens (dandelion, chicory, amaranth, or chard and spinach)
- 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 lemon, juiced
- Salt
Method
- Trim the tough root ends and wash the greens in several changes of cold water. Grit is the usual problem.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.
- Add the greens, pushing the stems in first, and boil uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes depending on how tough they are.
- Drain well but do not rinse, and do not squeeze them dry.
- Pile onto a plate while still warm, pour over the olive oil and lemon juice, and salt lightly.
- Keep the cooking water. It is drunk warm as a tonic.
Photo: Sotiria Simota, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Bougatsa
Semolina custard baked between filo sheets, cut up with scissors and dusted at the counter.
How to make Bougatsa
- Serves
- 8
- Time
- Prep 30 min, cook 45 min
Ingredients
- 1 litre milk
- 180g caster sugar
- 150g fine semolina
- 3 eggs
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 50g butter
- 10 sheets of filo pastry
- 120g melted butter, for brushing
- Icing sugar and ground cinnamon, to finish
Method
- Heat the milk with the sugar and lemon zest until steaming but not boiling.
- Rain in the semolina while whisking hard, and cook for 5 minutes until thick.
- Take off the heat, beat in the butter, then the eggs one at a time, and the vanilla. Cool slightly.
- Brush a baking tin and layer in 5 sheets of filo, brushing melted butter between each.
- Pour in the custard and level it, then top with the remaining 5 sheets, buttering as you go.
- Tuck the edges in, score the top layers into squares and bake at 180C (350F) for 45 minutes until crisp and golden.
- Cool for 20 minutes, then dust generously with icing sugar and cinnamon before cutting.
Photo: avlxyz, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Portokalopita
Orange cake made from torn filo rather than flour, soaked in syrup while still hot.
How to make Portokalopita
- Serves
- 10
- Time
- Prep 25 min (plus drying), cook 50 min plus 3 hr soaking
Ingredients
- 450g filo pastry, torn up and left to dry for a few hours
- 200ml sunflower oil
- 200g Greek yoghurt
- 4 eggs
- 200g caster sugar
- Zest and juice of 2 oranges
- 2 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp vanilla
- For the syrup: 400g sugar, 400ml water, 1 orange sliced, 1 cinnamon stick
Method
- Make the syrup first: boil the sugar, water, orange slices and cinnamon for 5 minutes, then leave to cool completely.
- Whisk the eggs and sugar until pale, then whisk in the oil, yoghurt, orange zest and juice, vanilla and baking powder.
- Tear the dried filo into small pieces into a large bowl.
- Pour the batter over the filo and fold until every piece is coated.
- Tip into a greased tin and bake at 170C (340F) for 45 to 50 minutes until deep golden.
- Pour the cold syrup over the hot cake, slowly, letting it soak in.
- Leave for at least 3 hours before cutting. It improves the next day.
Photo: El Mono Español, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a reviewRizogalo
Rice pudding cooked on the hob, served cold in a bowl with cinnamon over the top.
How to make Rizogalo
- Serves
- 6
- Time
- Prep 5 min, cook 45 min plus 3 hr chilling
Ingredients
- 150g short grain or pudding rice
- 300ml water
- 1.2 litres full fat milk
- 150g caster sugar
- 1 tbsp cornflour
- 1 strip of lemon peel
- 1 tsp vanilla
- Ground cinnamon, to finish
Method
- Simmer the rice in the water with the lemon peel until the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes.
- Add a litre of the milk and cook gently, stirring often, for 30 minutes until the rice is very soft.
- Slake the cornflour in the remaining cold milk and stir it in with the sugar.
- Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until it coats the back of a spoon. It thickens a lot as it cools.
- Remove the lemon peel, stir in the vanilla, and pour into individual bowls.
- Chill for at least 3 hours and dust heavily with cinnamon just before serving.
Coffee photographs: Espresso freddo by Irini Xasiotou and Greek Frappe by Elwiki74, both CC BY-SA 4.0.